Monthly Archives: June 2015

Going out with a bang!

Hi guys.

This post is written by a very happy girl, sitting in a hotel room somewhere in Doğubayazıt, Turkey. I’m smiling, sneak eating cherries before sunset (Ramadan) and singing along to Swedish music. Things are really good right now.

Why? I’ve had a 5 day visit from my Dad.

I don’t have to say much more than that, right? What started out as a joke about 6 months ago actually turned into reality. He didn’t only come to Turkey – he actually jumped onto a bike and joined me for three full days of cycling.

From Erzurum to Doğubayazıt – the last outpost before the border to Iran – he has been pedaling alongside me and I couldn’t ask for a better way to end my long stay here in Turkey. I’m absolutely stoked to have gotten to show someone close to me kind of what my days look like.

I wanted my Dad to see it all. The downhills, the headwinds, the people, the weird stuff – everything.

But sure – three days is only that much time to get to see and experience the different aspects of life on the road. And to suddenly afford to stay in hotels every night make things a whole lot more hassle free and eventless than what I’m used to. But still I am so happy with the days we spent together, working the Turkish roads.

The start of Ramadan naturally ment days with less çay than ever before. But luckily that didn’t stop the Turks from being as generous, upfront and talkative as always. And my Dad got to experience some of the never ending hospitality and curiousity from random people.


As well as the constant presence of animals hanging out on the roads


And even a Chinese fellow bikepacker, going in the other direction

My Dad is many things, but an athlete is not one of them. Starting I was a little worried that the cycling would be too much. But without hesitance, he joined in for a couple of pretty cool mountain passes.


…and even got into it enough to join in for the dorky (but mandatory) pass pics!

Of course though. This also meant that he got to enjoy some pretty tired legs by the end of the day.


Not just tired legs, it turned out


Is he …dead?

Apart from cool adults and other travellers, he got to meet a bunch of sweet kids welcoming him to their country.

And then see the same kids being horribly cruel to animals, just for kicks.


Yes, this one is seconds away from getting it’s head badly beaten with the stick

Luckily for me, Dad decided not only to experience Turkey – but to also bring some of Sweden to me. At home people were celebrating the national holiday Midsommar, and he made sure to get us into the right spirit.

On the third day of cycling, we rolled into Doğubayazıt where we had time to spend one day off the bikes.

That we would go to check out Mt. Ararat was pretty much a given from the start. With its’ 5100 meter it’s the highest peak in Turkey, and according to the legend where Noah’s ark stranded. Ahmet – the owner of our hotel joined as our guide and we had a absolutely great day walking halfway up the mountain.

Awesome days to say the least. However, having him leave early this morning was so weird.

‘Thanks for coming. Say Hi to Mum and my brothers! See you …sometimes.’

Quick hug and then he jumped into the taxi and drove off. And that was that.

I usually have difficulty saying goodbye to people I’ve met and spent one evening with. Saying goodbye to my own Dad, without having any idea when I’ll see him again, was something else. However, I’m absolutely thrilled he was here, and I really feel like I’ve gotten just the boost of energy and confidence I needed as I’m taking a new giant step already tomorrow morning.

I’m entering Iran.

With everything from visa to hijab in order, I’m ready to do this. I’m as excited as could be, and next time you hear from me I’ll be on the other side of the border.

Wish me luck!

Fredrika

By |June 23rd, 2015|Asia, Travel Logs|

The Anatolian Highland

As I was leaving the house of Ahmet and Hatice, I had the dog incident from a couple of days earlier fresh in mind. I was climbing the same gravelled road, the fog was heavy and really limited my sight. I was just waiting for the next – or the same – mafia clan of dogs to come and eat me for breakfast.

Soon enough I could see the silhouettes of a couple of dogs showing up from the woods. Shit.

They looked at me. And I at them. Both waiting for a reaction from the other. And… nothing. Better than nothing actually. These couple of cuties just decided to join me up the mountain. Patiently they strutted along as I slowly climbed my way to the pass.

In the downhills naturally they couldn’t keep up, though trust me when I say they were really trying. However, by then I had gotten to like my new travel buddies so much that now I was the one waiting for them to catch up.

Our joint forces lasted for some three hours, before we finally parted ways. Guess they finally realised that they weren’t gonna get any food…

From here I had a clear goal in mind. Erzurum.

Why in the world? you might wonder. Well, first I had to get there to collect my Iranian visa. But more importantly, if I got there in time I would recieve a sweet visit from home. My dad! Talk about good motivation.

The road to Erzurum was really nice. Epic scenery, good climbs and flawless road quality. For days on end I rode along great mountains, and as I got closer to Erzurum I gained more and more altitude.

Soon enough the mountain tops were all snow capped and I climbed my first couple of passes above 2 000 meters. Feels so good to have had a first taste of riding in the mountains. I really can’t wait for what I know is coming up in Central Asia this summer.

I’ll let the photos do the talking on this one.

Apart from full days where I literarly felt like I was cycling through a real life screen saver, the road to Erzurum wasn’t all about the views. As usual, it was also about the people. And some pretty unusual campsites.

This one was actually really nice. Until my new neighbours started munching away on my tent that is. Luckily though, my Bergans Compact 2P prooved to not only withstand rain and wind, but also sheep teeth.

The closer I got to Erzurum, the more beautiful I experienced the surroundings to be. As I’m cycling through these landscapes I really wish that I could have all of you sitting in my panniers. These are places one have to see in reality, not on a screen. Trying to capture the magnificance of the mountains seems so silly – because it just can’t be done. Not by me anyways.


I’ve passed so many of these. Who will tell me what and who it is?

After a bunch of days I was there. In Erzurum! And I still am.

I’ve spent a few days sorting out my Iranian visa. And finally having it my hand felt so god. damn. good. I think most tourers reading this can relate. I still have a bunch of bureaucracies and paperwork ahead of me, but at least I now have this first one done.

And today – finally – came that awesome day. The one where my dad jumped on a plane and flew down to meet me! And he is just as cute as always.

The plan from here is pretty epic. While waiting for him I managed to get us a second bike – so tomorrow morning we’ll continue on my route East together. I’m so excited to get to share a tiny bit of this experience with my dad. To later have the memory of some of those views in common.

And obviously, I’m also looking forward to get to watch the poor man huffing and puffing as he’s working those hills. Sure, he works out from time to time. But I mean. He is kind of old.

(No offense, Dad. But we all know it’s true…)

This is gonna be interesting for sure. Wish us (him) luck!

Fredrika

By |June 18th, 2015|Asia, Travel Logs|

The Off Coast Obstacle Course

Even though my week along the Black Sea coast was nothing short of amazing, it was time to shake things up. However, getting off the coast prooved to be a bit more complicated than expected.

As I had taken a right, onto a road leading me inland and up the mountains I was stopped by car after car, with people telling me I was going the wrong way. Their intentions were all good of course, and this was just a continuation of the overwhelming Turkish hospitality and willingness to help out.

However, this hospitality can sometimes become very close to unbearable. Even in the weirdest situations assistance will come, whether you want it or not – and turning down these helping hands isn’t always all that easy.

When for the 5th time I found myself arguing with a car full of strangers wether or not I should turn around, I caught myself thinking ‘WHY can’t just people be like in Sweden? Stay to themselves and simply not give a damn about others?’

Very soon though, I would take this silent wish back, a thousand times over.

The road up the mountains soon became small, graveled and very, very empty. Apart from the occational truck driver passing by, leaving a big cloud of dust for me to pedal through, I was alone. With the dogs. By now I’ve gotten pretty used to aggressive and angry dogs, and on this particular road they were many. However, staying on the lookout and fending them off kept me busy and entertained enough to not think so much about the steep climb I was on. I was happy.

Then – suddenly and from nowhere – a big mob (or perhaps army is a better word) of something like 10 huge and absolutely insane dogs appeared. Coming up from both sides of the road they quickly had me surrounded and scared shitless. I was totally caught off guard and as they quickly closed the distance between us, you could tell. They knew they had me.

It took a couple of seconds for me to get my mind to grip the situation. Shouting like a mad woman, I was kicking gravel towards this one dog going for my left back pannier. All while trying to pick up some stones without letting any of the others go for my hand and arm.

They were everywhere, and I felt like I had been thrown right into the middle of the old Disney movie The Lion King. You know when Simba and Nala are just about to be ripped to shreds by hyenas?

Still shouting, kicking and waving I tried to keep the distance as best I could. But I just had a really bad gut feeling about the whole situation. I was not in control.

‘I did get that Rabies vaccine, right?’

Then, in the middle of the loud, dirty chaos that I still clearly didn’t have control over – it came to save me. The Turkish helping hand. Or Mufasa. Depending on if you want to continue the Lion King reference or not.

Just as the dogs had appeared from nowhere – so did Ahmet. With one hand on the horn, Turkish music bursting through the speakers and the roaring engine of his tractor he made quite an appearance, leaving both me and the dogs startled.

Before I think neither of us had really understood what this Turkish carneval on four wheels was about, Ahmed had gotten out to show exactly why he was there. With the authority of Cesar Milan himself, he gave the mob of dogs the yelling of a lifetime, and in no time they all left, looking ashamed they had even come in the first place.

This is where I quickly and silently appologized to the whole Turkish population for ever thinking they were being too much. Before my heartbeat had even gotten down to its normal pace, I was sitting in Ahmet’s home – having dinner with him and his wife Hatice. It’s funny how things work sometimes.

The dog rescue had turned into dinner. And dinner soon turned into a full night of laughs and friends – and in time also a comfy bed. None of them spoke a word of English, but we still managed to have the best of times together.

The next morning the rain was pouring down. In that stubborn way that immediately let’s you know that it has absolutely no plan to stop. I think the whole house was kind of happy about this though – Ahmet & Hatice was enjoying having a foreign guest, and I desperately needed rest. I don’t even think we ever talked about it, that I would be staying an extra day was a given.

I really enjoyed this homestay. Everywhere I go have pretty much been welcomed like one of the family. In this house though, it was for real. And being one of the family ment helping out with the work.

This was a family living without any extras. They had a few very skinny cows for milk, and some land where they grew most of their food. And to make ends meet they had opened a Lokanta (like a small roadside restaurant) in their house, feeding the passing truck drivers. And I got to help out with all of it.

Cleaning, and milking the cows. Cooking for and serving the truck drivers. Helping Ahmet patch up the leaking roof. I wasn’t just a guest they wanted to feel like home. I was home – and it was amazing.

After a long day, when darkness fell and the last Lokanta guests had left. We all sat down to relax for the first time since waking up. These experiences are still the best thing I know with this weird way of travelling. So utterly rewarding and humbling.

People are working so damn hard compared to anyone back home. And still they have so little. Stuff that is. When it comes to joy and fulfillment – I am probably ready to state that the roles are reversed. You don’t need money to laugh, love and dance. That becomes very clear by spending time with people like this.


To support me in my struggle with the Turkish language, Hatice decided it was only right for her to also learn Swedish

The second morning the rain had finally given in. And after a big breakfast I was ready to leave. Ahmet thought it was too soon. In one month he would have me fluent in Turkish – and then I could continue. Haha :)

This was another one of those goodbyes. Still not used to them. After a bunch of hugs and kisses I jumped onto the saddle, and continued my slow climb up the mountain.

A little sad. Very, very happy.

And – on the lookout for dogs.

Fredrika

By |June 18th, 2015|Asia, Travel Logs|

Up & down, down & up the Black Sea

So. To cycle, or not to cycle along the Black Sea coast? Probably one of the most debated questions among touring cyclists as it comes to pedaling Turkey.

First off there are countless stories to be found about the physically demanding, but visually stunning riding along the coast. A beautiful, calm coastal road winding its way through the dramatic and lush green nature – with a constant panorama view of the powerful Black Sea. People have done it, loved it, and now pretty much won’t shut up about it.

And then there are the naysayers. The ones claiming that going for the coast basically means choosing not to experience ‘the real Turkey’. Which according to them is only to be found inland. These people pretty much describes the coast at a waste of time and calories, crowded with cyclists and local people so used to two-wheeled travellers that they would never look at you twice. Many of course without actually have cycled there themselves.

So. What to do?

I actually didn’t worry too much about making the right choice here. One look at the map and you realise that Turkey is big. I mean, really big. And I have time. Loads of it. So I kind of figured that well, I’m just not gonna make the choice. I’ll head up to check out this well debated coast, see what the fuzz is actually about, and then take it from there.

Are the climbs actually as steep as people make them sound?

Are the views as beautiful?

Is it really some kind of bicycle tourer’s highway up there?

And how bored will the locals be when another fully loaded bike is rolling in to disturb the peace in their village?

I reached the coast with the mindset that this probably wouldn’t be all that much to cheer for, but at least I wanted to have seen it with my own eyes before deciding not to ride there.

‘Probably I’ll get off in a day or two’, I thought to myself.

But I didn’t. In the end I hung around the coast close to a full week before I felt like I was ready to leave.

After this week I can state a few things for sure:

1) Yes. The cycling is hard work. The hills are stupidly steep, and simply. won’t. end.

2) Yes. It’s absolutely gorgeous, even enough to make the climbing worth it.

3) And. I’ve developed a completely irrational fear of cows


I mean – they’re beautiful and all…


But I just have this feeling that they want to sit on me?


C’mon. Right in the middle? Is it too much to ask to share the road?

And what about the crowds of lycra dressed Europeans fighting for the attention of the bored locals? Well. During my week I saw… zero, other cyclists. And even if I wasn’t looked at as a complete alien when I pedaled into the villages, I still recieved a never ending flow of curiosity, smiles and hospitality from people along the way.

Company, çay, food and places to stay was part of the daily routine and I was always taken care of in the best of ways. In short, it was a pretty awesome ride.

How to meet people in Turkey? Sometimes I feel like a better question would be how not to. All it takes is really to get off the bike. You don’t have to look for people. They will find you.


A random stop for lunch…


…would usually get me one, or four new friends happy to let me practice my Turkish with them

And speaking of Turkish. It’s obvious who are the best teachers around, right? Kids. Happy, curious and unembarassed they will let you take your time, and simply don’t care if you fail completely in making yourself understood. They will laugh and play with you anyways.


Securing the next generation of globetrotting bike chicks – Check!

In short, I loved the Black Sea coastline. One thing that I think is true though, is that it’s kind of monotonous. The views are stunning – but in the same way as yesterday. And the day before. It’s sad, but natural, that you don’t really know to appreciate the beauty after some time. And when that moment comes, it’s time to get off.

For me it took just less than a week.

That’s all for now. But keep your eyes open, more on Turkey is coming up shortly.

Fredrika

By |June 17th, 2015|Asia, Travel Logs|

New beginnings – taking on Asia

After spending a full week being stationary in Istanbul, I was ridiculously excited to get moving again. However, no matter how much I wanted to hit the road, I did so with a lot more hesitance than usual. Just a couple of days earlier, a fellow long distance cyclist had been hit and a killed by a car, just days of riding from Istanbul.

I have no words to describe how tragic and absolutely horrible this is, and having the news fresh in my mind as I was pedaling my way out of Istanbul made things even more nerve-wracking than they would have been anyways.

Thankfully my host Ali gave me some pretty aweome directions which let me go a couple of hours by the seaside before I actually needed to get into traffic at all.

But once I did, I was again reminded of how fast things can go so terrible wrong. On my way out of town I passed not just one, but two scenes of accidents. One which I came to way too early to even want to consider taking out the camera.


Definitely a day of reminders…

Luckily, I made it out of Istanbul without any close calls, and I was so so happy to finally be able to relax and actually enjoy the road. The day couldn’t have ended any better as I hit another jackpot when looking for a place to sleep.

When darkness started to close in I pulled up to this random restaurant by the side of the road. Kind of empty, but it just seemed to have a good energy to it. And it did! Before I had even really gotten to asking if they knew where I could pitch my tent, Hamit the owner had gotten me a seat, pulled out the grill and declared me as his new Swedish little sister. A sister that was in need of food!


Hamit and his cousins also working in the restaurant

After a huge Turkish dinner Hamit’s 16-year-old daughter came to pick me up, and we went to hang out in their home as Hamit finished off work. This was just a few days after Sweden had won the Eurovision Song Contest so I couldn’t have had better timing in order to be cool in front of her and her friends. Having the same nationality as that gorgeous Swedish singer was more than enough for them – and I was instantly part of the gang.


Måns played on repeat through the whole night

This was one of the funniest nights in a long time, as these guys made me feel sooooo… old! Haha. I usually consider myself being young. But just the thought of the unabashed selfies taken during this night makes me blush, and I was totally the granny in the group.

After a good nights sleep, a big breakfast, an even bigger lunch and a bunch of cays, I was ready to hit the road again.

I was now aiming for the Black Sea coast. Probably the most popular destination for long distance cyclists touring in Turkey. Usually the place is described as ‘hard work – but worth it’, and I definitely wouldn’t want to leave without seeing it for myself.

By now Turkey had already started to get really hot. So I was happy to get a day of rain and ‘cold’ weather as I was making my way to the sea.

Cycling in rain doesn’t bother me. But setting up camp kind of does. Luckily though – I didn’t have to worry about this. Because now I had family in Turkey, and Hamit just wouldn’t accept that his little sister would sleep outside. In rain?! No way.

‘Sister! Is raining! Tonight, you sleep, hotel. OK? Sister. OK?!’

If he had not given me way to much already, Hamit set me up with a hotel room for the night. I mean. What? Turkish hospitality – sure – but things are getting kind of crazy.

After showering like a mad person, and having the comfiest nights sleep in ages, I got in the saddle and rode the last kilometers to the coast. Super excited to see if it would live up to the hype or not.

As I’m writing this I’ve already gotten off it – so I kind of know it did. But I’ll tell you more about that next time.

Until then,

Fredrika

By |June 8th, 2015|Asia, Travel Logs|